• A-POC

  • 132 5.



The ISSEY MIYAKE Collection is founded in the philosophy of clothing made from “a Piece of Cloth,” a concept which explores not only the relationship between the body and clothing, but also the space that is born between them. The philosophy has evolved and grown as have Miyake’s interests always founded in innovative clothing combined with modern research and development.
The Collection made its debut in New York in 1971. Since the Autumn/Winter 1973 collection it has been shown in Paris. The ISSEY MIYAKE Men’s Collection was first presented as a section within Fall/Winter 1976 Women’s Collection; it has been shown as an independent line since 1978.

Editing: Pascal Roulin
Sound: Celmar Engel


Issey Miyake and his design team have been experimenting with and refining their pleating technique since 1988. The groundbreaking method - by which pleats are applied after the fabric is cut and sewn - is a revolutionary departure from traditional process. The first examples were presented in the ISSEY MIYAKE Spring/Summer 1989 collection. Since that time, the process has been refined and expanded to include basic items such as t-shirts. In 1993, the culmination of Miyake’s research, PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE, made its debut as elegant yet versatile clothing that offered its wearer both comfort as well beauty. The clothing is easy to care for, store, and travel with; and offers a choice of colors, patterns and shapes that make full use of the lightweight polyester knitted fabric. PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE is a premier example of “clothing as a product,” something that responds to the evolving needs of a demanding lifestyle and continues to please and delight its wearers.

Spring / Summer 1994

PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE Travel Through The Planet India China Kenya Morocco 1997-1999
Photo:Yuriko Takagi
Editing:Pascal Roulin


“A-POC” is an acronym for “A Piece of Cloth” and refers too, to the idea of “epoch.” It is a manufacturing method that uses computer technology to create clothing from a single piece of thread in a single process. Development began in 1997 as a project led by Issey Miyake and engineering designer Dai Fujiwara. The first results included ‘A-POC King & Queen, A-POC Le Feu’ and were presented in the Spring/Summer 1999 ISSEY MIYAKE Paris Collection. Following that, PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE and other collections began to develop items based upon the A-POC method (called “+A-POC”) starting in 2003. After 2007, the collection introduced design solutions under the subtext of "A-POC INSIDE" and has continued to refine its vision for making clothing.

A-POC King & Queen 1998
Animation: Pascal Roulin

A-POC Midas 2000
Animation:Pascal Roulin

A-POC: Kanazawa 2004
Photo: Marcus Tomlinson


132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE is a project, whose first evolution was presented by Issey Miyake in August of 2010. The concept grew from research and development by a group founded in 2007 within the Miyake Design Studio, named the “Reality Lab”, whose purpose, according to Miyake is to develop “designs that reflect and address the way people live today” and explore ways of making things that will renew “the possibilities of Japanese craftsmanship”.
The impetus for 132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE was the discovery of computer graphics applications that are capable of starting out with a single plane to construct a three-dimensional model with smoothly curving surfaces. This in turn lead to the creation of unprecedented designs that link the flat with the three-dimensional by folding and creasing. These designs are recreated using fabrics made of a revolutionary polyester created using recycled fibers developed by Japanese companies and produced with the cooperation of plants in textile-producing regions. These new fabrics are unique both for their structure as well as for the degree to which they are comfortable to wear.
The numerals of the “132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE” project name each have a meaning. The number “1” refers to the fact that one piece of cloth can become three-dimensional (“3”), and be refolded into its two-dimensional (“2”) state again. The number “5” after the space signifies the temporal dimension that comes into being after the clothing is worn by people. It is also a symbol of the future, the next step forward.
132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE not only combines the mathematics of folding, techniques used in clothes-making and aesthetic sensibilities; but also explores new possibilities for making things. This brand is a creative outlet by which Issey Miyake continues his long history of exploring and challenging the existing boundaries of creation and manufacturing.

Image movie: Pascal Roulin


HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE, a brand created by Issey Miyake, proposes new men’s clothing for a contemporary lifestyle. It is a brand of new clothing for the contemporary men, made possible by the development of Issey Miyake’s original pleating technology. The line has not only chosen the wrinkle-resistant and quick-drying fabrics, but also used the regular-width pleats in order to prevent the garments from clinging to the skin. As a result, the clothes are comfortable, easy-care, and lightweight. In addition to the series that is manufactured with the original “garment pleating” process whereby the pleating takes place after sewing the shapes of clothes, the line has launched a series of jackets that are sewn after the fabrics are pleated. This process creates a more architectural structure and gives the jackets and other items both beautiful forms and functionality. The brand applies three concepts : 1. Pleating process that creates comfortable stretchability and functionality, 2. Clothing as a “product” created with both design and engineering in mind, 3. Everyday clothes that are flexible enough to meet diverse contemporary life situations, aiming to create clothes that make the wearer appear more active and energetic, and ensure new discoveries.

Photo:Hiroshi Iwasaki